How to Replace Patio Doors

There are a total of thirteen steps of the patio doors installations project.

  1. First, patio door installation will start by removing old fittings and chipping away trimming from the old frame so it can be removed. Then take overall measurement from top to bottom to distinguish correct hide and side by sides to measure the width of your patio doors. Please make sure you also measure the previous entry, sometimes you have to cut through concrete, to measure drywall that had previous door fittings, in that case, make sure to get the correct measurement of the height and it’s better, to begin with, the subfloor.
  2. Get the door for your patio that has sliders built from aluminum, wood, or vinyl materials. Also, it will be great to choose the lowest maintenance door. If you want to match your door with windows and decor, check out which brand they belong to from your nearest hardware stores and buy that brand door for your patio. Also, it’s not necessary that you buy the same design and functional door like the one you had previously. If you are going to buy a new one then gets the one that can be more convenient and easier for you to use, but remember that stationery should not be faced towards constant heat. 
  3. Carefully remove the old door, unscrew all latches and bolts and be sure that none of previous doors traces or fitting remains to become a hurdle for new patio door instinct all son Removing of angel bracket required complete removal of these brackets from top to the bottom of the stationary panel.
  4. To remove the stationary panel, separate it entirely from the frame from top to bottom, use a utility knife to separate any paint or caulk before tipping it inwards, and then to detach it completely from the frame. 
  5. Connect flexible flashing over the sill then with 2-inches gaps wrapped it up on both opening and below sides. Also, cover any flashing sides you can found out on your door.
  6. To install sill pan first joined the vinyl sill pan over the flashing. Clean all kind of overlap with PVC cleaner and then proceed to weld the parts with PVC cement. You need to make sure that the floor, the level is 4- ft, Level before installation being because mostly the level doesn’t match on the previous door fitting. Also, leave 6- ft space for door opening. Make sure to fill any void or spaces you can find with sill and caulk before you move to start flashing.
  7. Flashing on the patio doors start at the bottom as it is applied on 2- inch on the door still and their sides. From 4 to 6 inches, apply flexible flashing on the sticky sides and under the surfaces and do it fast because it thickened and seals quickly. It’s necessary to do the second coating of flashing so that no area remains left out. Most professional left door after applying to flash but for extra protection from heat and rain add sill pan on it later. Then apply flashing on building paper or house wrap to reach difficult areas that you can’t reach. 
  8. Door sliders are usually well protected because they are wide and low soffit, and that’s why they don’t require flashing, but still, if you want to protect them then leave top fin intact and join it to the weather barriers. You can also use a drip cap under the opening to protect your door material from the water flow during the rain. It’s important to remember to create a space so that water can flow on the exterior surface.
  9. Make sure your frame is placed in the center to make it easier for opening. Screw it into the place, and square is levelled with shims. Recheck that your square is level with the glass panels before you proceed to add a stationary panel.
  10. Attach stationary panel into the opening, push door frame into any angle bracket to support it, and then tightly screwed it up to make it stay fixed on its place on the door frame.
  11. Leave your door open little so you can adjust roller heights between the jamb and panels. It’s quite easy to install sliders into the door. Just make sure that these sliders match with your door hardware. You can match and buy them together from the hardware store. It’s important to follow instructions step by step and first installed a stationary panel and then proceed to install sliders into your door. The stationary panel should be slid into ¼ inch opening of the side jamb, plus it’s essential to check out the gap is even from top to bottom. If you see that jamb is an imbalance or bowing out, then quickly make adjustments to fit it in the right condition. Once you are sure about this adjustment proceed to install angle clips, weather-stripping, and trimmed it as required. 
  12. Finish this patio doors installation from inside by adding extension jamb and trims. 
  13.  Finally, finished your patio door installation by adding filter strips.
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How to Replace a Patio Door

Project step-by-step (13)

Pry the interior trim free. Then chip away drywall to expose framing and measure the rough opening width (distance between studs) and height (floor to beam). Then select a new door that fits that rough opening. Before you run off to buy your slider, pull off the interior trim around the old door and measure the “rough opening” for width and height. (If you want to reuse the old trim on the new door, pull the nails through the unfinished side.) Make sure you measure to the framing right next to the old doorjamb. You may have to cut away overhanging drywall to get at it (Photo 1). To check the height, make sure you’re measuring to the subfloor, that is, the wood or concrete that the doorsill actually rests on and not a secondary layer of particleboard or plywood (underlayment).

Buying a Patio Door

Sliders are built from a variety of materials including aluminum, wood, and vinyl. Low-maintenance selections include either vinyl or aluminum exterior cladding over wood core, solid vinyl, and all-aluminum. If you want a slider that matches existing windows, consider buying the same brand. Check markings on existing window hardware to find out which brand you have.

Looking at the door from the outside, the operable panel determines whether it’s a right- or left-handed unit. Don’t be afraid to switch the way your original door opened if changing it makes access easier or furniture arrangements better. But be aware that heating vents work better in front of the stationary panel. They don’t stand up well to foot traffic.

Remove the old door from the sliding door frame

Remove the head stop and door

Latch the door, then unscrew and remove the inside head stop. Unlatch the door, tip the top of the sliding panel inward and lift it free of the track.

Remove angle brackets

Unscrew and remove any angle brackets at the top and bottom of the stationary panel.

Remove the stationary panel

Pry the stationary panel free of the frame at the top and bottom, slitting caulk or paint as necessary with a utility knife. Tip it inward and lift it free.

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Remove the old sliding door frame

Apply flexible flashing

Lay flexible flashing over the sill, wrapping it up the opening sides at least 2 in. and over any flashing or siding below.

Install a sill pan

Prep and lay a special vinyl sill pan over the flashing. Clean the joint overlaps with PVC cleaner, then lay the parts in place and weld the seams with PVC cement. Before you begin flashing, check the floor for level. In rare situations, the floor under the door will be out of level. Sweep the floor free of debris and check it with a straight board and a 4-ft. level. If it’s within 1/4 in. of level over the 6-ft. opening, let it be; the door should still slide smoothly. But correct larger variations with two long, tapered shims placed directly under the sill (use treated wood on concrete). Fill any voids with polyurethane caulk to keep out drafts. Then proceed with the flashing.

Begin flashing at the bottom. Apply flexible flashing directly under the doorsill and 2 in. up the sides (Photo 6). Flexible flashing comes in 4- to 6-in.-wide rolls and has a sticky side so it adheres to the underlying surfaces. It’s thick and seals around fasteners that are driven through it. It’s imperative that the flashing laps well over any deck flashing or weather barrier below the door (Photo 6). You may have to overlap two rows, as we did, to get the necessary coverage. Pros will usually rest the new doorsill (caulked) directly on the flashing, but for further protection in wet locations (rain will splash against the door bottom from all angles), add a “sill pan” as well (Photo 7). We chose a Jamsill Guard. It comes in three separate parts that glue together with PVC cement. Next apply to flash over any building paper, house wrap or sheathing along the sides and fold it around the door frame opening. We couldn’t work the sticky flashing behind the vinyl trim, so we tucked No. 15 roofing felt about 2 in. under it instead.

Our slider was sheltered by a wide, low soffit, so we didn’t have to worry about top flashing. But if your slider is unprotected, leave the top fin intact and slip it under the weather barrier (felt, house wrap, etc.) under the siding when you slide the new door frame into the opening. Then slip in a drip cap (usually included with the door) up under the weather barrier as well (Figure A). Follow this basic principle: Keep the water flowing toward the exterior surface, just like shingles do.

Square and fasten the frame

Center the frame in the opening and screw it into place, using a level and shims to square it. Check the frame for square and make final adjustments when you install the stationary panel.

Tip in the glass panels

Tip the stationary panel into the opening, push it against the door frame and install any angle brackets to anchor it (Photo 3). Tip the operable panel into place and screw the inside head stop to the top of the door frame

Adjust the door

Slide the door slightly open and adjust the roller heights until the gap between the jamb and the panel is consistent. Installing your new slider is usually the easiest part of the job. Be aware that every manufacturer has slightly different weatherstripping systems, handle and lock hardware, and ways to fit the doors into openings, so they may not exactly match the ones shown in our photos. Read and follow the door instructions for those details.

Follow the instructions to install the stationary panel first and then the slider. Tip the stationary panel into the opening and slide it within about 1/4 in. of the side jamb, and make sure the gap is even top to bottom. If it’s more than 1/4 in. out of plumb or the jamb bows, adjust the frame for plumb and straightness and adjust the shims if necessary. Install angle clips, weatherstripping, and trim as needed.

Finish up on the inside
Add extension jambs and trim

Finish up on the outside
Add filler strips


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